Battle of the pandas or Diver?
Wondering if you guys can help me decide my first AP since I'm new to the brand. If you guys could do it all over again, what would be your first AP between these three?-wrist is ~6.5-I currently have JLC Navy Seals Diver 42mm.-Looking for something classic that will never go out of style but still sporty.

Any long-time AT Good Planet owners?
Just curious as to how the titanium bracelets (& particularly the polished PCLs) have held up over time. Could you post pics as well?TIA

Thick watches
Practically all the 8500/9300 Co-Ax watches appear to suffer from the common complaint of being too thick for many people. (myself included) Don't they all come with a display caseback, and isn't this a significant contributor to the thickness? I've never had a watch with a display back, and frankly don't care much what the insides look like as long as they work. Perhaps it's more due to the 300 & 600m case rating because I don't think I've ever heard the complaint about an 8500 AT 150. My GMT II-C has a very flat, comfortable case back and wears about like my Speedy. The big dial/fat case designs don't do much for me.____________________________TT OysterQuartzSS/Black U DaytonaTT GMT II-CDD OysterQuartzBreitling AeroOmega Speedmaster Pro

Sell my two Rolexes for a Nautilus?
So, I think the PP bug has bitten me. I just got the 5167a (as you my hv read my last post) and really enjoy it. Now, I'm thinking nautilus too, as the SS bracelet wold nicely complement the rubber on the 5167a. However, I feel that if I get the nautilus there would be too much aesthetic overlap with my Rolexes - white SS Daytona and GV. Essentially, the stainless bracelet, PCL, etc, all combine to create a very similar overall look. So, two part question:1) should I sell the Daytona and GV to fund a nautilus. I'd be left with my 5167a and a yellow dial Breitling SuperOcean (beater). Or, just save up for the nautilus. Or, maybe just relax a little and wait it out?2) if I proceed, which nautilus? Blue 5711 (because it's classic and hard-to-find); white 5711 (which I like, but worry about whether i'd like the white dial once a own the watch); blue 5712 (because it adds a complication at little incremental cost); black 5726 (because the annual calendar is cool, but incremental cost is hig

Lousy Business--I Just don��t Get Flipping
Looking at the classifieds I see Batmans with stickers bought three months ago going for as little as $ 300 over MSRP and not moving. What is the big deal about flipping watches ? To me it does not make any sense at all to tie up $ 9K in an unworn watch, and then have trouble selling it at cost three months later. Think of all the hastle and risk involved, for a lousy profit. What is more is that it seems like there is a fake demand for these watches with so many buying to flip. Sooner or later these buyers will be discouraged and the miracle business attraction debunked. My guess is Rolex knows about this and have therefore restricted supply. The only ones that move watches are the known reputable gray sellers but they will buy you out of your watch for a 2K loss. There is risk and hastle involved there too.