AP 15202 owners question
Hello,Since a few days I have a 15202 (from 2014).I know the waterresistance specs, 50m.What do you do with the watch in terms of waterresistance (washing hands, swimming, etc.), and how far can you go without trouble?Any reaction/advice is welcome!OS.

Double Incoming - Double the Pleasure Double The Fun from TAKUYA
OK - Kind of going through a bit of a paradigm shift I have been feeling a strange desire to move my 5960/1a. I have been sitting on it, as I am still thoroughly enjoying the watch, but somehow wanting more (without additional cash outlay).Luckily, I happen to be friends with a stellar human being and terrific seller, Thanh Do (AKA TAKUYA) and have an opportunity I am delighted with.Out goes the 5960/1a and in comes a 5711/1a AND a 5167a I know - some of you may be thinking: Well - that is a fair sentiment - but I must express clearly and concisely: I am excited about this Pictures to come

Moving away from 392, need recommendations
I currently wear a PAM 392, a beautiful watch, but I'm really having a hard time wearing it, even though it's 42mm the thickness is way to much for a comfortable wear, I think it's about 18mm thick, so I will eventually sell, I'm trying to find a replacement Panerai that checks few boxes for me, but with the way Panerai randomly numbers their models it's getting impossible to find something on my own, The one that checks all my boxes is the PAM 1392, slim 42mm but it has this blue seconds hand that ruined it for me, so here's what I'm looking for:-Prefer 42 or 44-only Luminor or Luminor 1950 case, no radiomir -manual or automatic, don't care much for in house movement either.-sits flatter on the wrist without much heft to it-brushed case only (that's were it's getting difficult for me)-simple clean dial, with or without seconds hand.-value around $5000-5500 new or pre owned-prefer a black dial, chocolate dial is ok-sandwich dial preferred The PAM 176 is a good option, with its brushed

Trade my 368 for a 217...
The 217 has invaded my mind Considering trading my 368(+$) for a 217...similarities47mm1950 caseDial layoutDestroDomed crystalGold handsLimited to 1000 unitsDifferences8 day vs 3 dayIn house mvmt vs. ETA based OPX1Ti case vs. SS caseTobacco dial vs. black dialLuminor vs. Marina Militare printed on dial(Not my pic)I love everything about the 368, the 8 day movement, the case material, size, and design. I don't like the 8 Days printed on the dial. I love the history of the 217, and the Marina Militare on the dial...My 368 may increase in value, in several years. The 217 has doubled in value in 6+ years and holding steady. It would probably take my 368 plus the $$ I've saved for the new Exp2 to buy a 217...Or maybe just keep saving and have both....Anyone else compare these 2? What did you decide?Thanks

Rolex Sub bracelet
Hi all,I took delivery today of a 'Kermit' 50th anniversary sub, serial F778xxx which I think dates it 2004.I have tried on 2006 and 2007 pieces but then found one online that was 'old enough' for me.But the bracelet has an awful lot of 'play' in it; the links move a full mm laterally and more than that towards/away from each other. And the clasp moves and rattles even when closed. I have read about the Rolex rattle but the forum posts I found using the search function all referred to vintage pieces - 13 years isn't really vintage. Plus the 06 and 07 ones I've tried didn't have this issue (I tried both within the last week) and there's not a great difference between an 11 and a 13yr old bracelet.I don't know if this can be resolved? I've seen suggestions of having a watchmaker re-pin the bracelet. Yet other responses suggest the cause of this issue would be the hole in the link itself widening, which would suggest new pins is only a short-term fix. Replacing the whole bracelet is pres